MC3 Freedom Rail Pin™ pack for Foam Tiles Instructions
01-May-2013
Congratulations on your purchase of the MC3 Freedom Rail Pin™ pack for Foam Tiles.
WARNING: Freedom Rail Pins contain a sharp point when taken apart; use care when handling; keep away from minors.
Freedom Rail Pins™ are compatible with any foam tile that you may own, however are engineered to work with RCP Tracks 50cm Foam Rail Kits: SETR-C55020-01, SETR-C55030-01, SETR-C55050-01. It is also possible to replace original RCP Tracks rail pins with Freedom Rail Pins™.
TIP: It is possible with the Freedom Rail Pin to secure rails anywhere, however we recommend using the space where tiles interlock as a hole in the tile will not be required. However, if you want to use a spot other than that, use care to poke the bottom part of the rail pin through from the bottom of the tile and then immediately place the top part of the rail pin on top of the Rail Pin Shaft to avoid unnecessary risk. Follow the directions below to secure the rail pin set together. Holes that are made in the tiles using this method are very small and do not impact handling of the cars. Holes tend to shrink or go away significantly after a period of time.
Use Freedom Rail Pins to secure the Rails to your tiles. Use care to separate the bottom and top piece of the Freedom Rail Pin. Keep the top on, but make enough room to be able to slide the tile in between. Place the bottom piece (Disk with stainless steel shaft) under your tile. Make sure to align the pin’s location with regard to the hole in the rail. Once it is in place, use a 1.5mm Allen Key or driver to screw in the stainless steel cap head screw into the rail pin top. Use care to tighten until the top no longer slides on the shaft of the bottom piece. Secure the rail by squeezing the two top edges of the rail pin together. Then slide the foam rail onto the rail pin. Let go and the rail pin will secure the foam rail. Repeat until all rails are secure.
CAUTION: Over tightening can strip the rail pin hole. If this occurs, simply use a suitable sized drill bit to drill another hole into the rail pin top.
TIP: The difference with other systems is that they use jigsaw type pieces and require two tiles to create a lane; this system eases creation by allowing you to use a single rail to define the race path/lane. It is possible to create a fixed width lane, a decreasing width lane, increasing width lane or a combination of some or all types. To create a fixed width lane, use the area where the tiles interlock to secure Freedom Rail Pins™.
Storing and Care Tips
WARNING: Do not use anything but water to clean your Freedom Rail System™ Parts! Failure to comply may result in damage to the finish and in extreme cases, damage to the structural integrity of parts.
It is recommended that your foam tiles and this system be placed on a flooring surface other than unsealed concrete. This is due to the fact that unsealed concrete can sweat resulting in drying out of materials, which for foam, can result in crumbling and for plastic parts, structural damage resulting in breakage or severe premature wear.
If any part of your rail system needs cleaning, simply wet a cloth with water, squeeze to get rid of excess water and wipe the surface.
Due care has been taken to ensure paint, where it exists, for plastic parts and the painting process used is of great quality and can withstand years of use, however, it should be expected that paint will fade or mark during use.
©2013 Mini-Car Club of Canada (MC3)
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4PK programming for VE board
19-Feb-2013
If you use a 4PK with the new brushless (VE) car, and are getting a flickering light on the board with the result being the car would lose the radio signal briefly when performing very fast right to left transitions, read on:
Courtesy of "TheSteve" from mini-zracer.com forums:
There are several menu options in the 4PK, they change depending on if you select level 1, 2 or 3. I use level 2 for all of my models.
There are also several types of mixing but the easiest one I found to use was the one labeled "boat". Select that menu and then the following options:
*TRG-BRK > NORMAL
*TILT MIXING
CH1>3: -100
CH3>1: 0
MODE: ON
That is all you need to do.
This commands channel 3 to do the opposite of whatever channel 1 is doing(Channel 1 is the steering channel). On the mr03ve electronics channel 3 doesn't appear to be used at all(I don't think it supports tikitiki) so using it is no problem.
If you then select the "SERVO" menu you can see bars that indicate the position of the steering, throttle etc. When you move the steering wheel you should see the channel 1 and 3 bar graphs moving in opposite directions.
I've driven quite a bit with this setup and its working flawlessly with the 4PK so I'm sure you'll be 100% when you made the change, no more red light flickering or loss of signal
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EX-1 KIY Program Manager
11-Feb-2013
Only for use with ICS USB HS Adapter (Part #61028)
Program link coming....
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ICS VE Software
11-Feb-2013
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MC3 Programmable Transponder and Adapter Manuals
20-Nov-2012
PDF of Manual is attached below. Click to view. You must have Adobe Reader or another program capable of pdf file types on your computer/smart phone/tablet, etc...
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Quick Change Wheel Nut Install Instructions
24-Jul-2012
Check out the pdf attached below for instructions that include pictures or check out the videos below.
Thanks to Fai for his development and support work!
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Chase Mode (Tiki Tiki) Manual and Software
27-Apr-2012
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ICS Manuals and Software
27-Apr-2012
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Mini-Z Manuals
27-Apr-2012
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DSlot43 Manuals
27-Apr-2012
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Controller Manuals
27-Apr-2012
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Rim Offset Charts
27-Apr-2012
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dNaNo Part Chart
27-Apr-2012
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New to R/C Guide
02-Feb-2012
Finally got around to creating a small document to guide new users both to R/C in general and those new to Mini-Z:
http://minicarclubofcanada.com/NewToRC.aspx
Check out the guide and feel free to provide any comments or information you feel should be added to me at:
contact@minicarclubofcanada.com
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Jon's Winning MC3 Fall Series Touring Car Setup
05-Dec-2011
Chassis
MR03
- 98mm wheelbase (tried 96mm, but experienced traction rolling)
- stock board, FETs etc.
- Reflex Racing alloy top cover
- ~0.75 gram of weight added to center tunnel on underside of chassis (thanks Santino)
Body
Ferrari 360GTC
- wheel wells drilled out to fit 98mm wheelbase
- front splitter/lip trimmed, leaving ~1mm left
- window under roof was cut away
- front raised ~2mm for clearance and back lowered
Wheels/Offset
Front
- Atomic 19mm wheel (narrow)
- +1.5 offset
Rear
- Atomic 20mm wheel (wide)
- +1.5 offset
Tires
Front
- Kyosho 30 deg slicks
- worn down from one prior weekend of racing
Rear
- Kyosho 20 deg radials
- worn down from one prior weekend of racing
Tape
- Route 246 tire tape (this tape is amazing… no more folding/rolling of the tire sidewall like with other tapes)
Rear End
Reflex Racing 94-96-98 adjustable wheelbase motor mount
- set at 98mm
- set at lowest ride height
Reflex Racing medium FRP T-plate
Reflex Racing disk damper (from multi-option rear end)
- Oil: none (attracts too much dust)
- Top Spring: medium
- Bottom Spring: hard
- disks & plate were sanded using very worn 600 grit sandpaper
PN Racing dual spring center shock
- Springs: silver ones it came with
- Preload: none
Front End
Reflex Racing adjustable front end
- Type: long kingpin setup, with stock arms & pin
- Springs: standard PN Racing MR02 white springs
- Camber: 0 deg
- Caster: 0 deg
- Roll Center: raised 0.8mm (using MA010 shims)
Ride Height
- PN Racing lowdown knuckles
- 1 thick + 1 thin stock plastic shim
Drivetrain
Handout PN 50T… didn’t do much to it (probably why it wasn’t especially fast), except:
- “broken in” for 5 mins at ~40% throttle
- oiled the bushings
PN Racing 64p light weight ceramic ball diff
- Spur: standard one that comes on the PN Racing 64p ball diff
- Pinion: 13 tooth (64 pitch)
- set as loose as possible (right before spur would slip)
Reflex Racing ball bearings
Batteries
Peak 900, Atomic VP800
Total weight was ~177 grams. I was down to 176.xx grams after a few qualifiers (tires wearing down?), which was the reason I added 0.75 grams of weight.
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Jon's Winning MC3 Fall Series F1 Modified Setup
05-Dec-2011
Chassis
MF010 SP1
- came with an ASF board
- black SP chassis
- Mantis V2 front bumper (with stock nose/wing)
- transponder mounted internally where the crystal would go for AM F1's
Tires
Front
- Kyosho 30 deg (grooved)
- worn down to slicks from several race weekends
Rear
- Kyosho 20 deg (grooved)
- worn down to slicks from several race weekends
Tape
- Route 246 tire tape
Rear End
Route 246 alloy motor mount with disk damper
- set at second lowest ride height
- Oil: none
- Top Spring: hard
- Bottom Spring: hard
Kyosho rear shock
- Spring: stock
- Preload: 3x washers it came with
Kyosho carbon fibre suspension plates
- Side springs: none
- two screws closest to motor mount on chassis side were removed
Front End
Kyosho yellow (hard) springs
Kyosho stainless steel kingpins
Route 246 alloy knuckles
- Camber: 1 deg
Kyosho plastic tie rod
- the one with the most toe in
Drivetrain
PN Racing 43T motor
Kyosho ball diff
- Spur: stock one
- Pinion: stock 8 tooth
- set as loose as possible (right before spur would slip)
Kyosho ball bearings
Batteries
Peak 900, Atomic VP800
Controller Settings
I don't usually use any special settings with the MR03, but I do with F1...
Dual Rate
- 85% (the F1 has too much steering as it is)
Throttle Punch
- Forward: 50%
- Reverse: 30% (to help with that damn reverse delay)
No other curves or anything
Total weight of the F1 was ~210 grams the last time I checked... so not light be any means. No weight reduction has been done besides aero bits falling off the body from crashes
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Stock motor break-in tips
21-Nov-2011
1) back in the 1/10 days, we used to break-in new motors by submerging them into water until the water turned from clear to black. I used to use an old water bottle but in have (use the bottom half). Fill it with enough water so that the motor can be submerged. Hook up the motor to a power source (so the motor is working) and then submerge it (still running) into the water. What this does is break in the brushes,i.e. brushes will now contact the comm(commutator) fully, yielding more power.
For mini-Z, I'm recommending no more than 45 seconds, regardless of the colour of the water. Any longer than that and you'll have no brushes left (they will be worn too much). You'll find you have no power on the track.
Remove the motor from the water and let it dry completely. Lube the bushing/bearing with some quality oil (I use either Reflex Racing or Atomic lube), install and run it.
2) Use a break-in stand. I use the PN one. To use, connect the slave motor to a power source (should be between 1.5V to 2V) and run for 45 mins.
From PN's site directly:
When properly broken in, a motor can achieve a 10% to 20% increase in power over a motor that has not been broken in.
The PN Racing Motor Break in kit includes the motor stand, a slave motor, and pinion gears.
Using a slave motor allows the motor to break in without running under its own power (which heats everything up and glazes the bushings, preventing a quick break in). Properly seating the bushings will increase performance by reducing drag. If you run the motor under its own power to break it in, you risk heating and glazing the bushing surface where the armature pole makes contact. A glazed surface will be harder to wear in. When running the motor under its own power arching occurs that may pit the brushes and communicator before the communicator can be properly worn in by the brushes. Using a slave motor will drastically reduce the amount of arching. Note that the only way to remove arching completely on the new motor would be to remove one brush and break each brush in individually.
Most experts agree that a motor should be broken in at 1.5 to 3 volts for 10 mins or more. This can be achieved by connecting to the Much-More Motor Maser, using the motor break in feature of the ICE charger, or simply connecting the slave motor to a single 1.2 AAA cell for 1.5 volts or 2 AAA’s in serial for 3 volts.
Please note that it is important to keep the lead wires separate on the slave motor as well as the break in motor during operation.
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R246 Plastic Bumper Guide
21-Nov-2011
R246-1033: m512BB, 360, 246GT, 911GT3, LP500S, 5UR, 95' F1-GTR, SLR, C5R, GT500, R34GTR, S15, AE86
R246-1031: LP400, BMW Z8, AE86, S2000
R246-1032: F355, 250GTO, 787B, 962C
R246-1034: 360GTC, 430GT, DBR9, 911GT1, GT500 NSX, Nascar
R246-1035: FXX, 97' F1-GTR
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PN Tire Balancing/Gluer Machine Video
21-Nov-2011
This machine can be used with either tape or glue .
Check out the link to see how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXMaHJF1eLo
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Futuba 3PK and R246 KO Mini-Z Module Adapter
21-Nov-2011
The adapter fits perfectly-no slop where it fits into the radio
Tip for those using the 2.4Ghz Mini-Z module in their 3PK. You have to ensure the radio is in PPM mode, otherwise the combo will not work (default mode for the 3PK is PCM mode). Also, you have to adjust the values within the radio so as not to damage your car (i.e. steering travel limit). Instructions are included with the adapter kit.
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PN Racing Gear Reference Chart
21-Nov-2011
Includes 126 Pitch now
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Our Mini-Z & dNaNo Forums
17-Oct-2011
Check out our forum spaces hosted by mini-zracer.com
Our Mini-Z forum:
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=172
Our dNaNo forum:
http://tinyrc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=195
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Using MR03 board in a F1 chassis
02-Oct-2011
Many of us at the track have built our F1s from scratch since the only F1 chassis available from Kyosho are the AM band versions.
You too can build your F1 from scratch or upgrade the board to a MR03 board by following the steps below:
1) The coreless servo motor needs removed- I replaced with an older AWD cored motor
2) Wiring changes:
a)Make sure to swap the positive and negative wires where they hook unto the board for the steering motor.
b)Swap the green and orange wires on the board for the steering pot. Otherwise, the steering won't work right
3) On/off switch needs replaced- I replaced with one from an old i-series board.
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Tiki Tiki (Chase Mode) Board Explained
22-Sep-2011
Chase mode (also known as Tiki Tiki mode in Asia) functions to limit power output to 70% of full throttle. When the moment comes to attack, a push of the 3rd channel button on the transmitter increases power output to 100% for 3-second burst of speed. This enables greater driving control and also adds the excitement of overtaking duels so drivers can enjoy nose to tail racing battles. Also, the number of power boosts can be set to apply a handicapping system to level the playing field for drivers of different experience levels. At the time of shipment, the overtake function is set to a maximum of 5 times per race.
How to activate the Chase mode
At the time of shipment, the MR-03 with Chase mode is set with its standard 100% power output setting. The Chase mode is activated simply by pressing and holding down the pairing button.
How does the Chase mode Handicap System Work?
The number of 3-second Chase mode speed bursts of 100% power output that can be used is able to be limited for each race. Depending on the driver$B!G(Js skill level, the number of Chase mode speed bursts can be set higher or lower, and therefore apply a handicapping system for the race. Drivers of any skill or confidence level can compete effectively and enjoy racing with this handicap system.
(Requires optional No.82080/I.C.S. USB adapter and PC to change handicap settings).
Number of speed bursts for each Handicap Classes
Chase mode Legend- 1 times
Chase mode Champ- 3 times
No Handicap- 5 times
Handicap +1- 6 times
Handicap +2- 7 times
Handicap +3- 8 times
Handicap +4- 9 times
Handicap +5- 10 times
Handicap +6- 15 times
Handicap +MAX- 250 times
The number of speed bursts in Chase mode is counted from when the chassis power is switched on until it is switched off. Each time the chassis power is switched on, the number of speed bursts enabled is reset allowing the handicap to be applied at the start of each race.
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dNaNo base setup for RealTracks
22-Sep-2011
For our RealTracks testing, we found that box stock cars needed a front tire upgrade to Kyosho 40 degrees and the cars worked like magic on the track. We have tested the following cars: Mazda 787B, Porsche 962C, Ferrari FXX, Nissan 350Z GT500 2007. The only exception to the front tire upgrade has been the Aston Martin DBR9 which needs a different setup- further testing is required for this one car.
Kyosho Hard front springs
Kyosho Soft t-plate
Atomic Disc damper kit- Black spring bottom, silver spring top, Kyosho shock oil (comes with Mini-Z oil shock)
PN Racing alloy wheels (Nissan uses 19F and 19R)
PN Racing 8 degree rear tires
PN Racing 35 degree front tires
Kyosho Bearing set
Kyosho Adjustable Ball Diff- uses 1 spacer- Also switched to optionl 34 Tooth Diff Gear
Kyosho Alloy Front Suspension Kit
Kyosho Alloy Rear Hub Kit
Stock Kyosho motor with 7 Tooth Pinion and as noted above optional 34 Tooth Diff Gear
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MantisWorx F1 Option Parts Install Guides
22-Sep-2011
Check out the link below for help:
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=184
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